Have you ever caught the “perfect wave”? Experienced that incomparable feeling of anticipation, as the wave energy builds up beneath you and enters your body, carrying you along the crest of water as if you were a mere feather floating on a gust of wind?
If you are a surfer (or indeed a body boarder), you will know what I am talking about. You will likely also empathize with how difficult it is to explain the sensation of surfing to others.
However, like most who are passionate about the sport and about the ocean at large, there comes a time when you must allow your passion to overflow, like a shallow rock pool at high tide. And for me, that time is now.
"It’s not always about the wave itself, but about what you make of it."
As an original Durban boy and now a Muizies local, I’ve got saltwater in my blood. I have also had the privilege of surfing some amazing breaks around the world, from Bali to California to Mozambique. As no two surf spots are the same, I can’t tell you which is the ultimate ‘surfer’s paradise.’
What I can say, however, is that it’s not always about the wave itself, but about what you make of it. If you surrender yourself to that unparalleled feeling of freedom, the paradoxical emotions of excitement and peace, then you can’t lose – no matter how big or small the wave is.
Because when you’re on it, when you’re standing up and the world is rapidly passing you by and that cool ocean spray hits your face, even the worst day will dissipate into nothingness. Your problems and worries and stress will melt away and you will realize that this is it – this is the perfect wave.
Author: Brett Gouveia
Editor: Julia Davies
Photography: Graeme Field @ That's Me! Surf Photography